Nestled on the southern edge of the Sir Francis Drake Channel, Salt Island rests serenely between Peter and Cooper Islands. Despite its modest 80-acre expanse, this uninhabited island offers a rich tapestry of history, natural splendor, and tranquility, both above and below the surface. Salt Island may be small, but its significance transcends its size with its unique geological makeup and world-class SCUBA diving.
The island's name harks back to its historical salt ponds, where indigenous peoples and later settlers harvested salt, a crucial commodity of bygone eras. This industry was so significant that settlers once paid an annual tribute of one pound of salt to their British Queen. Today, remnants of this industry linger with Eco Soap Co.
One of the most poignant landmarks of Salt Island is the wreck of the RMS Rhone, a Royal Mail Steamer that met its tragic end off the coast in 1867 during the San Narsico hurricane. This state-of-the-art vessel, which had been running passenger and cargo routes between Europe, South America, and the Caribbean for just two years, succumbed to the storm's fury.
On October 29, 1867, while the RMS Rhone and RMS Conway were taking on fuel at a temporary coaling station in Great Harbor, Peter Island, the barometric pressure began to plummet. Expecting an early winter storm since it was so late in hurricane season, the two captains decided to stay in the protection of Great Harbor.
During the front half of the storm, both ships did drag anchor but were not damaged, so in the eye of the hurricane, the captains decided to make a move fearing they’d run aground on Peter Island as the winds circled back around. Passengers from the Conway were transferred to the supposedly ‘unsinkable’ Rhone (yes, just like the Titanic), which had a reputation for weathering storms. The passengers were tied to their bunks to keep them secure from being toss about in the sea state which was a common safety practice.
The RMS Conway then sailed across the Sir Francis Drake Channel to the Road Town Harbor. Although the ship did run aground and sustain minimal damage, she was refloated and continued in service for another 3 years to come.
As the RMS Rhone prepared to depart, they found its 3,000-pound anchor was entangled in coral and had to be cut free. Over 150 years later, that anchor remains ensnared around that coral in Great Harbor as a scuba diving site.
As the other side of the San Narciso hurricane approached, the RMS Rhone had no choice but to head for open water without an anchor. After exiting Great Harbor, Peter Island, the captain took the ship between Dead Chest Island and Black Rock Point, Salt Island. With open ocean just 250 yards ahead, the hurricane’s eye passed and 130 mph winds threw the RMS Rhone into Black Rock Point. Running at full speed, the ship exploded in two when the cool seawater breached the hull and hit the superheated boilers.
According to legend, Captain Woolley was on deck celebrating reaching open ocean with a hot cup of tea, when the sudden jolt threw him into the sea, and he vanished without a trace.
There are no solid records of how many people perished in the sinking of the RMS Rhone, as the passengers from the RMS Conway were among the fallen. The residents of Salt Island aided in the recovery of the 23 crew members who survived. The bodies that were recovered were buried in a cemetery on the island which remained mostly untouched until Hurricane Irma in 2017 devastated the grounds.
Today, the wreck of the Rhone is located within a marine reserve; its rusted hull serving as a haunting yet mesmerizing monument to maritime history. Diving amidst the remnants of this once majestic vessel offers a diverse array of marine life such as plentiful reef fish, moray eels, lobsters, shark, and turtles. There are two primary dive sights; the deeper bow of the ship, and the shallower middle and stern section, which is accessible via surface snorkeling in optimal conditions.
Onshore, ruins from past inhabitants invite exploration. Beyond the ruins lay the prominent salt pond for which the island is named, and from there visitors are free roam the rolling hills for stunning vistas. On Kuma Too, we enjoy the seclusion that Salt Island often offers. As the sun begins to sink behind St. John, the dive boats and day trip operators depart the area leaving us in peaceful solitude with the goats and turtles.
Whether diving into its underwater wonders, uncovering its storied past, or simply soaking in its natural beauty, Salt Island promises a memorable experience for all who visit its shores.
To learn about charters on board Kuma Too, visit www.SailingKumaToo.com.
Until next time, Happy Sailing!
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